A Schola Class
Taught by Lord Aleksei Dmitriev
| Kumihimo is an ancient Japanese
braid-making technique, dateing back to at least 550 CE., some sources
even say several thousand years BCE. Kumihimo braids where used
for to lace together Samurai armor, and also for decorative bindings
for traditional garments, including religion garments, as well as
wrapping sword hilts, horse harnesses, and tea ceremony accessories. Traditional kumihimo was done on a round wooden stand (marudai, which means “round stand”) or a square wooden frame (takadai, which looks more like a weaving loom and produces flat braids that look similar to card weaving). The threads, which traditionally were bundles of fine silk threads, were wound around bobbins called tama, which were weighted to provide tension on the threads during braiding. However, for learning kumihimo a foam disk is a good, easy substitute for a real marudai (there are also square foam disks used as takadai). Cotton embroidery floss is a good substitute for silk threads for learning, but any fiber can be used, such as yarn, cording, even beaded strands. First, we will make our marudai. We will cut a large circle out of foam, and a smaller circle (about 2 inches in diameter) in the middle. Then, use a rule to mark four ticks on the outside edge, as would be connected by two perpendicular lines. Then, using your best judgement, make 4 more marks half way between your first 4 marks. You now have 8 marks. Then mark half way between each of those marks (giving 16). One more time, mark half way between, to give a final total of 32 marks. That is how many slots a foam marudai usually has. Using scissors, cut a small slot (about ½ inch) at each of your marks.  There are hundreds of different kumihimo braids, using different numbers of strands from 4 to 100, and using different braiding patterns to produce braids with different cross-sections. The first and easiest braiding pattern to learn is the simple 16-thread rotating stitch (kongo gumi). This produces a round braid, but you can achieve different patterns depending on how you arrange the strands at the beginning. Before working the braid, assemble the loom as instructed. You can use any number of colors you want, but you need to make 16 strands of floss, all the same length. For a kongo gumi braid, I usually use threads about 3 times the length of the finished braid. If you are making a particular long braid, you might want to use something to wrap the each thread around so they do not become easily tangled; I use pieces of dowel or old thread bobbins, or plastic bobbins that close over the threads. To put together your loom: 1. Gather all the threads together so that their ends are even. 2. Carefully tie the threads all in a single knot, at least 2 inches from the end. 3. Put the knot through the hole in the center of the loom. Where the knot comes out will be the bottom of the loom. Hold it under the loom with one hand 4. With the other hand, arrange the threads in pairs, each pair across from another pairs of threads. Seat each thread in a slot.  For your first braid, it is easiest to put similar colored threads across from each other. Again, how you arrange the colors will produce different patterns. Putting same-colored pairs across from each other will produce a spiral effect. To work the braid: 1. Pick a pair of threads to start with (it doesn't matter which). Hold the loom so that those threads face away from you (upper threads). There should be another pair of threads opposite them that are closes to you (bottom threads). 2. Take the left-hand thread of the bottom threads, and remove it from the slot in the loom. Lift it up and put it in the slot to the left of the upper threads.  3. Next, take the right-hand thread of the upper threads, lift it up and put it in the slot to the right of the lower threads. That is one “stitch”.  4. Now, rotate the loom; you can go either clockwise or counter-clockwise, as long as you do it the same direction all the time. The next pairs threads are at the top and bottom. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you run out of thread. You will have to stop periodically and untangle your threads. If you are using bobbins, unwind more thread if it gets too short. You can watch your braid grown out the bottom of the loom!  To end your braid, cut off the bobbins, pull the threads out of the loom slots, and tie a single knot close to the braid. The traditional finishing involves wrapping an additional thread around the end to create a tight binding, then trimming the ends of the work threads to form a tassel. For ordinary use (esp. with cotton threads) a knot will hold fine, and you can still trim the ends for a tassel. You can also use jewelry findings to put clasps on the ends of your braids. There are many things you can use kumihimo braids for, although not all of them are strictly historical: Strings for a drawstring pouch Edge trim for garb Laces up your garb A cord for a hat or headpiece Loop closures, either with buttons or as frogs Bibliography
I like these two books: Beginner's Guide to Braiding: The Craft of Kumihimo. By Jacqui Carey. Published by Search Press (1997; reprinted 1998). ISBN-10: 0855328282. Her new book, Japanese Braiding: The Art of Kumihimo (Spiral-bound), is pretty much a reprint of this. Creative Kumihimo. By Jacqui Carey. Published by Unicorn Books & Crafts (1994). ISBN-10: 0952322501. More advanced with different braid patterns. Her new book 200 Braids to Twist, Knot, Loop, or Weave (Spiral-bound), is pretty much a reprint of this. And I’ve heard that these are also good: A Complete Guide To Kumihimo On A Braiding Loom: Round, Flat, Square, Hollow, And Beaded Braids And Necklaces. By Kathy King James. Published by CreateSpace (2009). ISBN-10: 1441428755. Beautiful Braiding Made Easy: Using Kumihimo Disks and Plates. By Helen Deighan. Published by Crossways Patch (2006). ISBN-10: 0954033353. Braids: 250 Patterns from Japan, Peru & Beyond. By Rodrick Owen. Published by Interweave Press (1995). ISBN-10: 1883010063. Kumihimo: Japanese Silk Braiding Techniques. By Catherine Martin. Published by Lark Books (1986). ISBN-10: 0937274593.  |