2006 US Market Electra X Maintenance Notes

 

Use this data at your own risk. The author assumes no liability for any injury or damage incurred by the reader. This document is intended for informational use only.

 

This document is intended to share information with RE Bullet Electra X owners.

 

Sections:

 

I           Routine Maintenance

II           Torque Cylinder Heads and Adjust Valves

III          Adjust Drive Chain Tension

IV         Starter Solenoid Problem

V         Rear Brake Cam Lubrication and Rear Wheel and Brake-hub/Sprocket Removal

VI         Carb Information

 

I Routine Maintenance

 

            Note: Check fasteners as you go along. Check the fasteners for whatever area you are working on.

Make notes of parts needed in order to have them on hand prior to the next maintenance.

3000km = 1864m

 

            Note: Note all these items are due at every maintenance. Refer to your maintenance schedule in the Owner’s Manual  or in the shop manual.

 

1)     Check condition of spark plug

2)     Torque cylinder head and adjust valves (see next section, II, for detailed steps)

3)     Check/Adjust decompression release:

o       Check for about 1/4” to 3/8” slack. If adjustment is needed:

Optional:

o       With feeler gauge still in the exhaust valve and piston still at TDC compression, loosen the lock nut on the decompression cable at the tappet cover and screw it in enough to give the flat side of the cam room to fit back under the “top hat”.

o       Replace cover (and gasket). Make sure o-ring is still inside the cover nut.

o       Check the effect to see it for yourself: pull decompression lever and see that the feeler gauge is gripped tightly. Now release it.

Adjustment:

o       Now go ahead and adjust cable for about ¼” to 3/8” freeplay at the lever. Loosen 13mm locknut at cam cover. Adjust using the threaded 10mm adjuster (unscrew takes up slack, screwing in provides more slack). Check cable adjustment at bar-end lever. Tighten locknut.

o       ALTERNATE METHOD – following Service Manual procedures: They say to adjust the freeplay until you just feel it affecting the feeler gauge (just like your test effect above). I do not like this. You have just adjusted your valve and now you are affecting it with the decompression release! I think they meant to say: adjust it until you just feel it affecting the feeler gauge – then back it off a few threads so as not to affect valve clearance.

3.a surface lube the cable: There’s just enough play that you can get a spray tube in there.

4)     Run bike to thoroughly warm engine, primary and gearbox

5)     Drain engine oil: unscrew dipstick, remove all three drain plugs, clean screens as needed, wipe off dirt from plug area, inspect crush washers (replace as needed).

6)     Remove oil filter: 13mm acorn nut and crush washer (if you don’t see the washer, it fell into the oil!), outer cover, spring, metal washer, small o-ring, large metal washer, large o-ring. Lay them out on a clean towel. It might help to use a magnet or an ultra thin needle nose pliers to pluck the components out. It took me awhile to ‘persuade’ them to come out. Lube filter and install components in reverse order. Note: You might want to replace the old filter temporarily back inside the housing just to see how far back in it goes; then make sure the new one goes in just as deep. My new filter would not go in far enough. It turned out I had been sent the wrong filter. Luckily, I had another spare that did fit. Allow oil to fully drain. (refill is below). Replace washer, gasket and o-rings as needed. Pre-lube filter with fresh oil. Installation is in reverse order.

7)     Check gearbox oil: fully loosen the hex bolt under the clutch cable. It’s the one with the copper crush washer. Make sure oil oozes out. If it doesn’t, top-up gearbox oil until it does ooze out. Grease actuating arm through fill hole.

8)     Removing primary cover to replace oil and check primary chain: Unclip both connecters from the alternator wires coming out of the primary case. (one clip with yellow wires; one with green and white wires.) Remove shift lever (10mm) and foot peg (14mm). Remove allen bolts and drain. Carefully remove cover: wiggle, pull, wiggle, pull. It helps to tap the gear shift shaft with a hammer while pulling outward on the bottom of the primary cover. Check tension at top of chain for 5-6mm freeplay. Adjust with 11mm as needed (at the base). Remove gasket, noting how it goes over the alternator wire. Carefully wipe it clean and dry. Wipe inside of case clean. Pre-fit allen bolts back in through gasket to help hold it in place. It has been noted on the Web  to check the alternator stator retaining nuts/bolts/screws to ensure that they are not loose. Reinstall cover, tightening allen bolts in cross-hatch pattern. Make sure to do one final check of all bolts. Refill with 14.9 ounces 15w40 or 20w50. Reconnect alternator harness clips.

NOTE: You can double this amount to 29.8 ounces per a bulletin from RE. It supposedly helps with the Sprague clutch.

 

9)     Fill engine oil with no more than 1.75 quarts. After maintenance, verify correct oil level after thoroughly warming engine. If you attempt to put in the specified 2.37 quarts it will overflow.

10)  Check clutch freeplay at lever and adjust as needed. Lubricate at lever, wiping off  excess grease and old dirt. If needed, fully lubricate clutch cable.

11)  Check level of brake fluid in reservoir. Turn handlebars full right and ensure that fluid level is at or above “MIN”. Lubricate at lever, wiping off  excess grease and old dirt.

12)  Lube rear brake grease fittings on both sides. Mine on the right side pulled right out. It was difficult to screw it back in. By applying pressure to the foot brake lever, I was able to screw the fitting back in. Lube rest of rear brake linkage, wiping off excess. If called for, lubricate the rear brake cams (see Section V, below).

13)  Clean and re-oil air filter – or replace – or whatever is appropriate for your model. If cleaning a K&N-like filter, allow 24 hours to dry before re-oiling.

14)  Check throttle freeplay. Check for smooth throttle movement. If needed, lubricate throttle and throttle cable.

15)  Check battery electrolyte level: remove front battery flap and bracket/holder (2 screws). Pull battery forward enough to see fluid level. Reinstall battery and vinyl cover.

16)  Check rear drive chain tension at top for 1 to 1 ¼ inches. Check in several spots. Adjust at tight spot as needed. See section III below for detailed steps. Clean off chain as you feel necessary. (I use WD-40 with chain on bike and then wipe it off). Lube chain and wipe off excess.

17)  Check fork oil level: Unscrew cap, use small (1/8 to 3/16) dowel to verify 14.5 to 15 inches. I had to add fork oil. If you have to add it, add small (1/2 ounce) amounts until you get the correct level. Otherwise it’ll overfill and you’ll have to drain it at the bottom like I did! When replacing threaded caps, you might have to pry the rubber grommet (that cables go through) out of the way to gain enough room.

18)  Check steering head bearings: Turn, pull, push and otherwise firmly twist handle bars. Steering stem should turn smoothly and there should be no ‘slop’.

19)  Check wheel alignment. I used a metal pipe. Also check to make sure both drive chain lobed cam adjusters are set to precisely the same settings. (More info down in section III). You can’t check it on the center stand.

20)  Check spokes for tightness. Check in same place on each spoke. Check by tapping spoke with a spoke wrench and listen for nice ting-tang, ting-tang, ting-tang on each pair. Flat sounds jump out at you and indicate a loose spoke. Front wheel spokes might sound overall a bit different than rear spokes. Allow your ear to adjust to the ‘right’ sound.

21)  Check fuel filter and replace as needed. Unscrew petcock bowl and clean as needed. Inspect petcock screen. Replace bowl. Check carb float bowl for debris.

22)  Examine exhaust and exhaust brackets. Ensure all are tight and firmly secured.

23)  Examine tires. Check tire pressure.

24)  Lube: footpegs, shift lever, kick start lever, side stand.

25)  Armor-All: Fuel line and filter, starter solenoid and cables, battery flap and fuse holders, ignition wire and spark plug cap, starter motor cable, horn wires, brake hose, exposed cables: throttle, clutch, decompression lever, electrical wires, crankcase breathers, alternator wires (coming out of primary), speedo cable and fender grommet, foot peg rubbers, brake pedal pad, kick start rubber,  turn signals, brake light lens, fork boots, leather saddle bags (remove to get to buckles), seat, grips, mirrors, instrument grommets, switch gear and plastic ignition nut.

26)  Clean spokes and wheel rims. Clean left side of rear tire. Armor-All tires.

27)  Check any remaining fasteners not already checked. Check timing gear cover screws. Check oil line banjo fittings (22 and 13 mm). Check front (13&12mm) and rear (18mm) motor mounts. Check bottom crankcase-half stud nuts (10mm). Check horn bracket and chain guard rear  bracket for stress cracks.

28)  Wipe painted bike surfaces clean.

29)  Polish aluminum.

30)  Place holder: don’t forget to re-lube and reinstall your air filter if you let it dry for 24 hours.

 

 

II Torque Cylinder Heads and Adjust Valves

At just over 1000 miles, my Electra X shows oil weeping around the cylinder head gasket (not the base gasket). It was time to torque the head cylinder nuts and check the valves while I had the valve covers off.

 

  1. Remove fuel line at petcock
  2. Remove the rear gas tank mounting bolt (14mm). It is the short one.
  3. Remove the front gas tank mounting bolt (14mm). It is the long one.
  4. Remove gas tank
  5. Remove spark plug
  6. Remove valve covers (5mm allen). I tapped upward with hammer and screwdriver to carefully dislodge. I used a knife for final separation.
  7. Remove cam cover (13mm)
  8. Placed piston at TDC compression. Used dowel carefully to monitor piston rise and checked rods for spin.
  9. Tightened cylinder base nut (10mm) (above the small square cams access panel)
  10. Torqued 6 cylinder head nuts (12mm) to 24 ft/lbs. Backed off until loose first then re-torqued in this order:
    • Front left (ex)
    • Right rear (in)
    • Left rear (in)
    • Front right (ex)
    • Left center (near spark plug)
    • Right center (behind oil lines)

All had a small amount of tightening after breaking free.

  1. If you significantly tightened the head bolts, you will likely find that the pushrods have resistance. You don’t want to turn the engine over if the valve adjustment was adversely affected by the torquing. Loosen the locknuts and loosen the (cup) adjuster nuts in preparation for the next step.
  2. Turn engine over several times with kickstarter and place back at TDC compression.
  3. Check valves at push rods: Note that the pushrods themselves just barely visible. The adjusters and locknuts attached to the lower end of the pushrod protrude into the top of the cam case and this is where you do your adjustments. (13mm attached to pushrod, 10mm locknut, 8mm adjusting screw that butts against the tappet). You might want to remove the 11mm stud (that holds the cover on) in order to get better access. Check to see that the pushrods spin freely with no up/down and minimal side/side movement.

 

 

 

Check valves at rocker arms: Intake and Exhaust:  .1 mm cold.

 

Follow-up Notes: Adjust valves to .1mm cold (a loose .004 and a very tight .005 – or .005 does not fit). At this setting of .1mm the twirl method should be the pushrods spin freely with no up/down and minimal side/side movement.

Therefore, if you are only doing the twirl method follow these guidelines:

a)     If there is up and down movement (as well as side-to-side) then the setting is too loose.

b)     If there is no up and down movement and no side-to-side movement (or of course, if it won’t spin freely) then the setting is too tight.

 

  1. Replace cam cover and gasket: using the kick starter, turn the engine over and with the other hand raise the decompression “top hat” up. This will allow the cam in the cover to slide under it when you refit it. You might find that the slack in the decomp cable needs to be readjusted (if so, see section 1 item 3 above).
  2.  Replaced valve covers, spark plug and gas tank (front, rear – thread lock, and fuel line).

 

Here’s some more valve information:

 

Background:

 

How do you know when your piston is at TDC compression?

How do you replace the pushrod or threaded adjuster ?

 

First, the ammeter technique does *not* work with the AVL electronic ignition.

 

Here is the technique I use (after removing the sparkplug, tank and valve covers as referenced in the document I cited):

Using a small wooden dowel carefully hold it about 1.5 to 2 inches into the cylinder through the spark plug hole.

Slowly turn the engine over with your hand on the kickstarter and the other holding the dowel.

Anticipate the piston making contact with the dowel so that you can begin to raise it in concert with the piston.

This care is necessary so that the dowel won't bind.

First time will be the learning experience, after that you will have a feel for the technique.

Once the dowel is raised as high as it will go check the pushrod adjusters through the cam access panel.

If both spin freely you are at TDC compression.

If neither spin freely you are at TDC exhaust.

A few things of note at this point:

You will probably have to rotate the engine over, raising the dowel, several times in order to get a feel for when it stops rising - and just before it starts to descend.

Once you are confident, use a black marker to draw a line around the dowel to use for future reference.

The mark will really facilitate the process.

Now:

Why do the pushrods spin freely at TDC compression (and vice versa)?

Well, the pushrods push on the valves (indirectly via the rockers) to open them.

At TDC exhaust they are both open.

That is, the pushrods are pushing up against the rockers, through those strong valve springs and holding the valves open - so the force won't allow you to spin them.

When it is at TDC compression, both valves are closed so the pushrods are not pushing up against the rockers and are therefore, loose.

 

So now back to your situation.

Remove the sparkplug, tank, cam cover and valve covers as referenced in the document I cited.

You will likely see that the pushrod has come out of its socket. Possibly at both ends.

If it is, go ahead and pull it right on up and out through the top at the rocker.

Visually inspect it to ensure that there is no damage. Roll it on a flat surface.

Loosen the locknut for later.

 

You can now start by turning the engine over by hand with the kickstarter and watching the valve movement of the remaining pushrod/valve.

When the rocker is raised up fully and that rod spins a bit by thumb then you are at TDC compression.

(Verify with a dowel)

 

You now can replace the other pushrod.

Just fish it down in reverse fashion.

Pull the rocker arm upwards as far as it will go.

Use needle nose pliers at the bottom end to first seat the pushrod at the top and then at the bottom.

Using your fingers or 13mm and 8mm, thread the adjuster until the pushrod is seated properly.

(e.g., spins freely, no up/down and minimal side-to-side).

 

At this point you are almost ready to do the valve adjustment.

However, to become familiar, you might do this:

Rotate the engine slowly through using the kickstarter and observe the valve movement.

When both rockers are pushing down fully on the valves you are at TDC exhaust.

When both rockers are raised up you are at TDC compression.

(the other two corresponding cycles are BDC)

 

Do this several times and observe until you are confident you understand the movement.

Once you think you're at TDC compression put in the dowel and make the mark on it.

Also check for spin at the pushrods.

 

Now follow through as described above and using the dowel really get that thing up to TDC compression for real.

 

At this point you can follow the steps in the cited reference to fully adjust the valves.

-MM

 

 

 

 

III Drive Chain Adjustment

  1. Make a note of the current position of both the left and right side lobed cam adjusters. Pay particular attention to any manufacturer punch marks in the sides of the lobed cam adjusters. Both adjusters should be adjusted the same relative to those marks.
  2. Remove the cotter pin from the axle nut
  3. Loosen the axle crown nut
  4. Loosen the larger axle nut immediately being the crown nut
  5. Loosen the brake stay (anchor) nut located just below the brake rod and to the left of the axle nuts
  6. Loosen up the rear brake (rod) adjuster nut
  7. Verify that the adjusters are still where they were initially noted and that loosening things did not allow them to move. Rotate each lobed cam adjuster one position and verify that they are both the same distance between the punch-mark and the adjustment pint/stud.
  8. Check chain tension at the top rung for about 1 inch of play or slackness.
  9. Tighten fasteners: Large inner axle nut, crown nut*, cotter pin, brake-rod adjuster, brake stay (anchor) nut
  10.  Check your rear brake adjustment. Check your cam marks one final time

*If you find that after you have tightened the large inner axle nut or the crown nut, the axle seems loose (e.g., the wheel assembly wiggles, the axle turns freely): Take off both nuts. Put the crown nut on (without the large axle nut behind it) and tighten it down to help draw the axle through towards you. At this point you should notice the difference. Take the crown nut off; replace and tighten the large inner nut and finally replace the crown nut once again.

 

Although it’s recommended that you lube a warm chain, I usually end up doing the lubrication after adjusting my chain (cold).

 

IV Starter Solenoid Problem

There is a noted problem on Electra X models where the left sidecover rubs the starter solenoid.

I read a post on Hitchcock’s bulletin board where it wore through the rubber, resulted in a short and caused the starter to run and run and run – even with kill switch on and ignition off!

 

I rotated my solenoid almost 180 degrees to provide some insulating airspace. But as a secondary measure I glued some rubber trim onto the edge of the sidecover.

 

V Rear Brake Cam Lubrication and Rear Wheel and Brake-hub/Sprocket Removal

In order to lubricate the brake shoe cams in the brake-hub/sprocket assembly (BHSA) you will need to remove the rear wheel and the BHSA.

1.   Note position of both drive chain cam adjusters (relation of punch mark to stud).
2.   Remove cotter pin and 24mm axle crown nut
3.   Pull out axle from right side. Watch for large spacer and smaller “top hat” spacer to fall out. Smaller “top hat” spacer goes inside dust seal in the hub.
4.   Remove wheel. It helps to have someone lean the bike over to the right.
5.   Remove the 19mm brake stay nut and washer, the larger inner axle nut and the cam adjuster, all from the left side.
6.   Note the position of the brake (rod) adjuster nut and remove it from the rod.
7.   Remove the chain’s master link then the chain from the sprocket.
8.   Push the threaded spacer assembly (TSA) that the large axle nut was on through the hub and out the other (right) side. Watch for the large washer/spacer to fall out from between the swing-arm and the BHSA.

NOTE:
Here is the order of axle parts on the left side:
a)   24mm axle crown nut – fits on axle
b)   larger axle nut – actually threads onto the TSA
c)   chain tension cam adjuster
d)   swing-arm
e)   large washer spacer
f)   BHSA
Here is the order of axle parts on the right side:
a)   Wheel hub
b)   “top hat” spacer inserts into hub
c)   large spacer
d)   swing-arm
e)   chain tension cam adjuster
f)   axle

9.   Remove the BHSA and slide off of the brake rod
10.   Remove brake shoes from sprocket
11.    Remove brake shoes and apply grease (I used drum brake grease). Apply a dab to the springs and to the holes (in the shoes) that they go through. Lubricate cam spindle/axle that runs through to the outside of the housing (which the brake rod linkage attaches to). Reinstall the shoes.
12.   Clean sprocket/brake hub
13.   Lube the pivoting washer that the brake rod goes through and grease the return spring attached to that assembly
14.   Reassemble BHSA
15.   Slide BHSA back over the brake rod.
16.   Insert the TSA through the hub and slide the large washer/spacer back in between the hub and the swing-arm.
17.   Insert brake stay through slot
18.   Push the TSA all the way through the swing-arm (note the flattened sides).
19.   Slide the hub forwards, put the cam adjuster on the TSA and put the large axle nut on loosely.
20.   Rotate the cam adjuster to give slack and reinstall chain and master link.
21.   Set cam adjuster back to original position
22.   Now adjust the chain if needed.
23.   Loosely replace the 19mm brake stay nut and washer.
24.   Replace brake (rod) adjuster nut to approximate original location
25.   Reinsert the “top hat” spacer into the right side of the wheel hub
26.   (Optionally) apply vinyl dressing to the rubber bushings inside the wheel hub.
27.   Place the wheel onto the hub
28.   Put right side large spacer between the hub and swing-arm.
29.   Cam adjuster should still be on the axle. Insert axle through to the other (left) side.
30.   Adjust cam adjuster to match the left side.
31.   Adjust rear brake (rod) adjuster.
32.   Make sure wheel spins freely.
33.   Tighten large axle nut on the TSA
34.   Make sure wheel spins freely.
35.   Tighten smaller 24mm axle crown nut
36.   Make sure wheel spins freely.
37.   Tighten 19mm brake stay nut
38.   Make sure wheel spins freely.
39.   Check chain tension cam adjusters one more time and also chain tension.
40.   Check brake adjustment one more time.
41.   Reinsert cotter pin.
42.   Do a final check of everything.

 

 

VI Carb Information

Here are notes on the main jet and needle of a 2006 Electra X stock carb:

Main jet:
- 2 phillips screws hold the float bowl on.
- Remove them and you'll see the main jet is the tallest brass fitting.
- Mine is a 110 jet.
- Unscrew the jet with a flat blade screwdriver. Only the round threaded jet should come out. If the jet holder with the hex sides comes loose, use a wrench to hold it in place as you unscrew the jet itself.
- You will be able to see the needle up in the jet tube.
- Assembly is reverse.

Needle:
- 2 phillips screws hold the carb top on
- Look at the brass colored carb top. Note the rubber tab protruding. Note the metal tab that fits over a positioning stud.
- Remove the top and a big spring pops out.
- Peek down in the slide and you'll see a butterfly-shaped brass holder with 2 small phillips.
  This holds the needle assembly in place. *Make a mental note of its postion: long side, short side, 2 holes in slide.
- Carefully remove the slide and diaphragm assembly
- Remove the 2 small brass screws inside the slide and turn the assembly over.
- The brass fitting and screws will come out. Also a smaller spring and a washer. Finally the needle.
- The needle has a clip and a white plastic spacer. The clip is probably in the middle slot of three.
- The white plastic spacer has a little stud that helps locate the needle in a hole in the slide when you go to replace it.
- Remove the clip with needle nose
- The white spacer *will* move. Turn it around and around to start freeing it a bit (almost as if you were screwing it in or out). Once it moves freely, some pressure will slide it down so that you can place the clip in the bottom-most position (towards the pointy end), thus raising the needle.
+ Assembly +
- After the clip is relocated, slide the white spacer back up snug against it
- Drop the needle back down into the slide and make sure the stud on the white spacer fits into the little hole in the slide.
- drop the little washer back down over the end of the needle
- place the little spring on next
- Place the butterfly back in resting on top of the spring. Long end is positioned between the two holes in the slide, while the short end butts-up against the slide and no holes can be seen on that back side.
- Replace one screw into the tapered hole. Compress it and screw it in just enought to get a bite.
- Put the next screw in and tighten both down progressively.
- Reinsert the slide and diaphragm assembly. The rubber tab will fit into a positioning slot.
- Reinsert the long spring
- Replace the metal cap. It too has a positioning slot. Screw in both phillips screws.